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A first allotment is a lot of ground, a lot of weeds and a long list of things that could be bought. Most of that list can wait. This article covers what a plot involves, what to check before taking one, and the kit that earns its place in the first year.
How to get a plot
GOV.UK says to contact your local council to apply for an allotment near you. The council will either allocate a plot or, in many cases, add you to a waiting list. The page does not give waiting times, and it covers England and Wales only. Plot size, rent and tenancy rules are set locally, so ask the council or the allotment society for the current figures.
How big is a plot?
The RHS says a full allotment plot is 10 rods, which is roughly 250 square metres. Half plots are often available if a full plot is more than you can manage. Sizes vary by site, and some councils define a standard plot differently, so ask what "half" means on the site you are offered.
For planning, 250 square metres is roughly 25 metres by 10 metres. In the planner, set the width and height in metres, pick a cell size and create the grid. A 50cm cell suits most vegetables, and a 1m cell suits large brassicas and courgettes. Planning a half plot first is a good way to see how much a realistic first season looks like.
Check before you accept
The RHS suggests asking several questions before taking a plot.
- Water. Water supply varies from site to site, so ask where it is and how far you would carry it.
- Facilities. Look for sheds, compost areas and toilets.
- The lease. Some leases prevent fruit tree planting, or structures such as greenhouses, polytunnels and sheds. Read it before you plan around one.
- Theft and vandalism. Ask the site what it has experienced.
- The state of the plot. The RHS suggests waiting for a well-tended plot instead of taking an overgrown one elsewhere. If you take a neglected plot, expect it to take more than one season to bring into cultivation.
Clear less than you think you need to
The RHS advice for a first year is practical. If the plot is cleared by early spring, it can crop well from the start. If it is badly overgrown, plan what you can do in year one, year two and so on. Clearing half in year one lets you start growing sooner.
- Remove debris first. Take out unwanted materials, and ask the site's management team whether they can help.
- Dig out woody plants. Cut down trees, shrubs and brambles and dig out the roots. Woody waste can be shredded for compost.
- Remove perennial weed roots. Bindweed, couch grass, ground elder and nettles need their roots taken out before anything is buried, and the RHS says not to compost them.
- Smother what you cannot dig yet. Opaque mulches suppress weeds but need at least one growing season to work well. The RHS says carpet is no longer recommended.
- Test the soil. Once the ground is clear, test for pH and nutrients to decide whether lime or fertiliser is needed.
- Ask about pests and diseases. The RHS notes that soil problems such as clubroot and onion white rot can affect new plots, so it is worth asking neighbouring plot holders what they have had before you plan your crops.
The soil article on this site explains how to identify your soil type and how much compost a bed takes.
What is worth buying in year one
The following is a short list of tools and materials. The reasoning, rather than the product, is what matters, so each item says what to look for.
Digging and clearing
A spade and a fork do most of the work. Choose a handle length that suits your height, and pick them up in a shop if you can. A fork is better than a spade for loosening compacted ground and for lifting perennial weed roots without chopping them into pieces. Ad A stainless steel digging spade covers general digging. Ad A border fork is lighter than a full-size one and suits a smaller plot.
If the plot is overgrown, Ad a pair of long-handled loppers cuts brambles and woody stems that secateurs cannot manage.
Smothering and soil
For ground you cannot clear straight away, Ad a woven weed control membrane is an opaque sheet that blocks light, in line with the RHS advice on opaque mulches. Weigh it down with stones or ground pegs so it stays put. Ad A soil pH test kit is a simple first check. It does not replace a lab test of nutrients, but it tells you whether lime is worth considering.
Planting and tending
A hand trowel and a hoe cover small holes and weed control. A Dutch hoe, used on dry days, slices weeds off just below the surface. Ad A Dutch hoe is easier on the back than hand weeding.
Carrying and composting
You will move compost, weeds and tools. Ad A galvanised wheelbarrow with a pneumatic tyre is far easier on soft ground than a small one. The RHS lists compost bins among the things to set up, and Ad a compost bin takes the non-perennial weeds and plant waste.
What can wait
- A shed. Check the lease first, and see whether the site has a shared store.
- Greenhouses and polytunnels. The same lease check applies, and they are a second-year decision.
- A big seed order. Match what you buy to the area you have cleared.
- Fruit trees. Some leases restrict them, so read the lease first.
Planning the first season
The RHS suggests making a crop rotation plan before you plant, and that is what the planner is for. Add each bed, choose the crops and the planner shows the spacing and a sowing and harvest schedule. The beginner's guide has crops that tolerate a first-time grower.
For the first year, pick a small number of crops and grow them well. A cleared half plot with a few reliable crops is better than a full plot of weeds with a seed packet in every corner.